How big of an impact do ads have on editorial choices? by Franca Sozzani
I realize that by answering this question I am putting myself in critical situation and will probably be discussed for it. As usual, I don't care. It's right that I give an answer to a question I have been asked.
Lest start with the fact that if you want quality - something Vogue does every month - you have costs for production that are very high. When we talk about quality, it's not just photographs but also clothes.
No one can contradict me if I keep saying that the beautiful clothes belong to famous designers. Being famous is what makes a designer successful. They get the economical means to invest in the ads.
I am talking about investment. Not buying. To grab the attention of the people and make them want their brand, not just for their name but also for the quality of the product and what they represent. Their shows are the most wanted ones. The magazines publish them. They publish them because they are good and have demonstrated that they are better than others by standing the test of time. However, even before they became famous and started investing in advertising they were published.
The right question would be: are they famous because they get published or the opposite? This is a dilemma that holds in it the answer. Before becoming famous magazines don't know you, when you get published you become famous. Everyone likes this.
When designers become famous and invest on ads, people tend to think this influences the magazines. No one likes this. Was it better to not help them? How would new ones make it?
A famous designer is more interesting and the magazines have to take this into account. A magazine also needs to surprise its readers with new names and propositions.
I am answering a question I am sure you want to ask. Why do we publish designers that are already famous and well-known? Because they are appealing to customers, they get distributed around the world, whereas the young ones that are growing have few selling points and create a lot of expectations and get disappointed when they can't find the products in stores.
Advertising is important for a magazine because it helps with production costs. High level. Like Vogue. The magazine respects big names and publishes them. It doesn't forget about newcomers, it promotes them through contests and research. Sometime by even making mistakes. This is what I explained yesterday is about.